Kote are armored sleeves which protect the forearm, elbow, and upper arm. Each kote has long ties in the front and back which loop around the chest to attach each sleeve individually. Kote are distinctive in that they cover the back of the hand and the base of the thumb and are held in place with finger loops.
(NOTE: If you will be doing combat archery, then you can attach thin plastic, steel or leather plates to this area of the kote. This will fulfill the requirement for a ‘half-gauntlet' on the draw hand and leave your fingers free for shooting.)
Although it isn't currently required in AEthelmearc, armor can be sewn on the outside of the forearm area as well as the upper arms. (Personally, I think anyone who fights without forearm armor is an idiot.) The armored pieces can be either heavy leather, plastic, or painted steel, and should have some thin foam padding under them.
Because of the percussive nature of SCA combat, the historical method which the Japanese used to protect the elbow is inadequate. However, an authentic looking kote can be worn over a European elbow cop which is attached to an elbow pad if the cop has a small wing. Before you can make the kote you need to get a standard set of SCA legal elbows. Make sure that the wing is very small, or it won't work with the kote.
Now then, this is mainly a sewing project. If you're a guy who gets weak-kneed at the sight of a sewing machine, then ask someone who knows how to sew to help you. This isn't a difficult project, and a reasonably experienced seamstress or seamster should be able to knock it off in less than three hours, including making the pattern.
Fabric
(NOTE!! Be *sure* to pre-shrink your fabric by washing and drying it
first.)
- ____ 1.5 yards of 45" 50/50 ploy/cotton Japanese patterned fabric for the
outside of the kote. (If you have very long or very short arms, you will
need more or less.)
(Note: The Japanese like their kote to be kind of flashy. Don't be
afraid to use some of the more interesting Japanese patterns now available at
most fabric stores. Since all of our armor looks pretty much the same, this
is a chance to individualize your armor. And it looks *really* neat if you
make a pair of fighting pants (mopei) out of the same fabric.)
- ____ 2.5 yards of 45" 50/50 poly/cotton plain fabric for the lining and
straps.
(Note: This should be fairly heavy cloth, though lighter than denim.)
- ____ 3 yards of shoelace weight decorative cord. Get something that will
go nicely with your Japanese fabric.
- ____ 2.5 yards of lacing cord. This is to lace the kote closed.
Measurements
1. Arm length
Put on your European elbow armor. Put your fist on your chest and have
someone measure from the point of your shoulder to the top of the back of
your wrist. Measure on the outside of the arm and over the elbow armor to
get the greatest possible distance.
2. Forearm length
With your fist on your chest, have someone measure from the center back
of your wrist to the point of your elbow armor.
3. Wrist circumference
Measure around your wrist and add two inches. Divide this number by 2.
(For example, if your wrist is 8.5", then:
7.5 + 2 = 9.5"
9.5 / 2 = 4.75"
4. Back of the hand -- (This is less of a measurement and more of a tracing.)
Touch your thumb to your pinkie finger. Have someone wrap a piece of
pattern paper over the back of your hand. Have them take a pencil and mark a
line along your wrist and the edge of your hand; then over the knuckles; then
scooping down along the web of the thumb; and then back up to cover the
bottom knuckle of the thumb; then down along the base of the thumb to the
wrist.
(NOTE!! If you are a combat archer, then make sure to lay the armor
pieces over the paper before you trace your hand so you will have enough
fabric to sew the armor to the kote.)
1. Making the Pattern
A. Take a some heavy paper and cut out a piece 10" high and about eight
inches longer than your arm measurement.
B. Draw out your pattern as shown in DIAGRAM 6-1, being sure to remember to
include the back of the hand piece.
(NOTE!! The pattern *does not* include seam allowances!
2. Layout and cutting
A. Take your outer fabric and cut it an half lengthwise.
B. Fold the two pieces in half lengthwise and iron them so that the folded
edge is sharp.
C. Lay your patten on the fabric with the long side against the folded edge.
D. Cut out the pieces, *making sure to leave a seam allowance*.
E. Repeat steps A-D with your lining fabric.
F. Cut out a right and left hand out of the outer fabric and the lining
fabric.
G. Measure and cut three 4" wide lengthwise strips from your remaining
lining fabric. These will become your straps. (If you are very large or
very small, you may need to lengthen or shorten these pieces. We'll get to
that later.)
3. Sewing the Shoulder Seams
A. Fold your pieces so that the *outsides* (or ‘good side') of the fabric
are together.
B. Begin by sewing the shoulder seams as shown in DIAGRAM 6-2.
4. Attaching the Lacing Loops
This part can be a bit tricky. Follow the diargams and you'll do fine.
A. Take your lining pieces and spread them out flat with the good side up.
B. With a ruler and chalk marker (or pencil), draw a line along the seam
line, beginning at the seam line of the wrist.
C. Mark a line every inch until you reach the elbow. (SEE DIAGRAM 6-3)
D. Using pins or tape, loop your cord at every inch mark. The loops should
be just big enough to fit the tip of your finger through. (SEE DIAGRAM 6-3)
E. Stitch the cord securely to the lining fabric, and remove the pins or
tape. Repeat this until you have lines of loops on each side of both sleeves.
5. Sewing the sides together
A. Lay the good side of the outer fabric to the good side of the lining
fabric. Pin them together, making certain that the shoulder seams line up.
The lacing loops should be hidden between the layers.
B. Beginning at the shoulder seam, stitch one side of the kote together. Be
sure to follow your seam line carefully over the loops. Do *not* sew the
wrist closed. Return to the shoulder seam and stitch the other side.
C. Turn the kote right-side out and iron it flat. Be sure to tuck in the
seam allowance for the wrist and iron it down as well. Your loops should all
be neatly exposed along the seam line. (SEE DIAGRAM 6-4)
6. Sewing the backs of the hands
A. Place the good side of the hands together, and stitch them. Do *not* sew
the wrists closed.
B. Turn them inside out and iron them flat.
C. Take your lacing and stitch on a thumb loop and two loops for your middle
and ring fingers. The loops should not be tight. You should be able to
close your hand into a fist without either discomfort or too much pull on the
fabric.
D. Slip the wrist of the hand into the wrist of the kote. Pin it into
place. (You may need to adjust it's placement once the kote is strapped on
for the first time.) SEE DIAGRAM 6-5
7. Sewing the straps and hand
A. Take your 4" long strips of lining fabric and fold them in half. Sew a
seam along the long side. Turn them inside out and iron them flat.
B. From one of the strips, cut two 18" long pieces. Fold in the end of the
pieces and stitch them closed.
C. Place about 2" of the strap on the lining side of the kote and box stitch
it into place as shown in DIAGRAM 6-6.
(NOTE!! The short straps go on the *thumb sides* of the kote.)
D. On each of your remaining two straps, sew one end closed. Pin the end of
the strap to the kote opposite the short strap.
E. Using your lacing cord, lace closed the forearm of the kote. Put on your
elbow armor and carefully slip the kote on. Bring the long strap around
under your arm and tie it to the short strap with a bow. If the strap ends
aren't even, measure the length you need to trim off.
F. Adjust the back of the hand so that it is placed correctly. When you
bring your fist to your chest, the kote should be drawn tight against your
arm.
G. Remove the kote and stitch the wrist and hand into place.
H. Stitch the long strap into place.
8. Attaching the armor
This is all hand stitching. Make sure you use heavy waxed linen thread
(the kind use for sewing leather) and a a big needle.
A. If you are a combat archer, you'll need to have steel or plastic plates
sewn onto the back of the hand. Be sure to put a thin layer (1/8" or 3/16")
of closed-cell foam between the steel (or plastic) and the cloth. (If you
need the hand plates, talk to me or to Kintarou.)
Now, a word about forearm armor.
There are many different kind, from wrap-around single pieces to slabs of
leather which are strapped into place with big buckles.
The Japanese were very fond of splinted armor, which is armor made of
long thin plates which are stitched into place. Personally, I think it works
well and looks good. All you need are a dozen or so 1" wide pieces of ABS
(barrell plastic) which are about 6" long and have been drilled with 1/8"
holes about every half-inch all along the edges. But it's up to you.
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(Note: The Japanese like their kote to be kind of flashy. Don't be afraid to use some of the more interesting Japanese patterns now available at most fabric stores. Since all of our armor looks pretty much the same, this is a chance to individualize your armor. And it looks *really* neat if you make a pair of fighting pants (mopei) out of the same fabric.)
(Note: This should be fairly heavy cloth, though lighter than denim.)
1. Arm length
Put on your European elbow armor. Put your fist on your chest and have
someone measure from the point of your shoulder to the top of the back of
your wrist. Measure on the outside of the arm and over the elbow armor to
get the greatest possible distance.
2. Forearm length
With your fist on your chest, have someone measure from the center back
of your wrist to the point of your elbow armor.
3. Wrist circumference
Measure around your wrist and add two inches. Divide this number by 2.
(For example, if your wrist is 8.5", then:
7.5 + 2 = 9.5"
9.5 / 2 = 4.75"
4. Back of the hand -- (This is less of a measurement and more of a tracing.)
Touch your thumb to your pinkie finger. Have someone wrap a piece of
pattern paper over the back of your hand. Have them take a pencil and mark a
line along your wrist and the edge of your hand; then over the knuckles; then
scooping down along the web of the thumb; and then back up to cover the
bottom knuckle of the thumb; then down along the base of the thumb to the
wrist.
(NOTE!! If you are a combat archer, then make sure to lay the armor
pieces over the paper before you trace your hand so you will have enough
fabric to sew the armor to the kote.)
1. Making the PatternA. Take a some heavy paper and cut out a piece 10" high and about eight inches longer than your arm measurement. B. Draw out your pattern as shown in DIAGRAM 6-1, being sure to remember to include the back of the hand piece. (NOTE!! The pattern *does not* include seam allowances! 2. Layout and cuttingA. Take your outer fabric and cut it an half lengthwise. B. Fold the two pieces in half lengthwise and iron them so that the folded edge is sharp. C. Lay your patten on the fabric with the long side against the folded edge. D. Cut out the pieces, *making sure to leave a seam allowance*.
E. Repeat steps A-D with your lining fabric. F. Cut out a right and left hand out of the outer fabric and the lining fabric. G. Measure and cut three 4" wide lengthwise strips from your remaining lining fabric. These will become your straps. (If you are very large or very small, you may need to lengthen or shorten these pieces. We'll get to that later.) |
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3. Sewing the Shoulder SeamsA. Fold your pieces so that the *outsides* (or ‘good side') of the fabric are together. B. Begin by sewing the shoulder seams as shown in DIAGRAM 6-2. 4. Attaching the Lacing LoopsThis part can be a bit tricky. Follow the diargams and you'll do fine. A. Take your lining pieces and spread them out flat with the good side up. B. With a ruler and chalk marker (or pencil), draw a line along the seam line, beginning at the seam line of the wrist. C. Mark a line every inch until you reach the elbow. (SEE DIAGRAM 6-3) D. Using pins or tape, loop your cord at every inch mark. The loops should be just big enough to fit the tip of your finger through. (SEE DIAGRAM 6-3) E. Stitch the cord securely to the lining fabric, and remove the pins or tape. Repeat this until you have lines of loops on each side of both sleeves. |
|
5. Sewing the sides togetherA. Lay the good side of the outer fabric to the good side of the lining fabric. Pin them together, making certain that the shoulder seams line up. The lacing loops should be hidden between the layers. B. Beginning at the shoulder seam, stitch one side of the kote together. Be sure to follow your seam line carefully over the loops. Do *not* sew the wrist closed. Return to the shoulder seam and stitch the other side. C. Turn the kote right-side out and iron it flat. Be sure to tuck in the seam allowance for the wrist and iron it down as well. Your loops should all be neatly exposed along the seam line. (SEE DIAGRAM 6-4) |
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6. Sewing the backs of the handsA. Place the good side of the hands together, and stitch them. Do *not* sew the wrists closed. B. Turn them inside out and iron them flat. C. Take your lacing and stitch on a thumb loop and two loops for your middle and ring fingers. The loops should not be tight. You should be able to close your hand into a fist without either discomfort or too much pull on the fabric. D. Slip the wrist of the hand into the wrist of the kote. Pin it into place. (You may need to adjust it's placement once the kote is strapped on for the first time.) SEE DIAGRAM 6-5 |
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7. Sewing the straps and handA. Take your 4" long strips of lining fabric and fold them in half. Sew a seam along the long side. Turn them inside out and iron them flat. B. From one of the strips, cut two 18" long pieces. Fold in the end of the pieces and stitch them closed.
C. Place about 2" of the strap on the lining side of the kote and box stitch
it into place as shown in DIAGRAM 6-6. D. On each of your remaining two straps, sew one end closed. Pin the end of the strap to the kote opposite the short strap. E. Using your lacing cord, lace closed the forearm of the kote. Put on your elbow armor and carefully slip the kote on. Bring the long strap around under your arm and tie it to the short strap with a bow. If the strap ends aren't even, measure the length you need to trim off. F. Adjust the back of the hand so that it is placed correctly. When you bring your fist to your chest, the kote should be drawn tight against your arm. G. Remove the kote and stitch the wrist and hand into place. H. Stitch the long strap into place. |
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8. Attaching the armorThis is all hand stitching. Make sure you use heavy waxed linen thread (the kind use for sewing leather) and a a big needle. A. If you are a combat archer, you'll need to have steel or plastic plates sewn onto the back of the hand. Be sure to put a thin layer (1/8" or 3/16") of closed-cell foam between the steel (or plastic) and the cloth. (If you need the hand plates, talk to me or to Kintarou.)
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There are many different kind, from wrap-around single pieces to slabs of leather which are strapped into place with big buckles.
The Japanese were very fond of splinted armor, which is armor made of long thin plates which are stitched into place. Personally, I think it works well and looks good. All you need are a dozen or so 1" wide pieces of ABS (barrell plastic) which are about 6" long and have been drilled with 1/8" holes about every half-inch all along the edges. But it's up to you.